I was recovering from a cold when I ordered the shop’s large meat combo pho ($17), mixing rice noodles with rare steak, beef brisket and beef meat balls with lots of herbs and spices.

The pho combo has rare beef, meatballs, and fatty (phat-ty?) brisket and broth that only needs a little doctoring with your favorite condiments. Krog Street Market’s lunch and dinner rush mayhem ...