Wandering the art deco streets of Cordoba in southern Spain, I’m drawn to a commotion on a square. It’s almost midnight – everyone’s out, savoring a cool evening. Short men with raspy tobacco voices ...

For most tourists to Spain, a visit to Cordoba isn’t a must. Barcelona and Seville have been luring visitors for decades, keeping Cordoba, a city in the south with a population of around 330,000, ...